tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52724455826431100852024-03-21T15:12:00.970-07:00Fox TrotsRamblings about places and adventures from syndicated travel journalist Jim FoxJim and Barb Foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06752223481962274597noreply@blogger.comBlogger1125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5272445582643110085.post-78277735745598252172011-08-14T20:03:00.000-07:002011-08-19T19:27:26.059-07:00Driving California's Highway 1 awakens the senses<div class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US"> (c) By Jim Fox</span></b></div><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US"></span> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv9FtRCmceFaXoH7Sj2EZlXqT52SWNolKLG3bZ2UNwbXZcK47P1OfEPp9AlUtw6wOpo_1_4MPm9wC3iyrK5q_ZA2_ZCEewK5B664X0TQ5ILoLObzCeic6NFN_db7b4h1T5W6RWjPa0uFPA/s1600/Seals-Fox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv9FtRCmceFaXoH7Sj2EZlXqT52SWNolKLG3bZ2UNwbXZcK47P1OfEPp9AlUtw6wOpo_1_4MPm9wC3iyrK5q_ZA2_ZCEewK5B664X0TQ5ILoLObzCeic6NFN_db7b4h1T5W6RWjPa0uFPA/s320/Seals-Fox.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span lang="EN-US">The 15,000 resident elephant seals along the beaches at Ragged Point, Calif. attract crowds of onlookers. (Jim Fox photo)</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> The stench can be nauseating. The moans, belches and groans deafening. But the drive is exhilarating.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> This is California's Highway 1 along the Pacific Ocean that's one of the most scenic drives in the world.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> But there's one beach avoided by sunbathers and surfers.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Even though, crowds form daily at Piedras Blancas to gawk at the sunbathers - hundreds, often thousands, of elephant seals. They spend their days lazing in the sun, grunting and covering themselves in sand.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> "Don't stand downwind from the seals," was the advice Tom Wolfe, concierge at the Fairmont San Francisco, offers as we set off on the drive south from the hotel atop Nob Hill.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> At the beach there's an "elephant seal symphony," in particular what mimics non-stop human belching. It's just the call of the elephant seal.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Add to that gargles, grunts, snorts, bleats, whimpers, squeaks, squeals and the male elephant seal trumpeting to produce this concerto.</span><br />
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<i><b><span lang="EN-US">Editor's note: Also see the companion piece about the drive along California 1 at <a href="http://1tanktrips.blogspot.com/2011/08/california-one-tank-trip-along-scenic.html#more">http://1tanktrips.blogspot.com/2011/08/california-one-tank-trip-along-scenic.html#more</a></span></b></i><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> This rookery along the coastal highway at the southern end of Big Sur is especially noisy during breeding season. Males bellow threats, pups squawk for food and females squabble over prime location and their pups.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgXXBoWpurJmbAUEIt1UnDBvR646KnOjocbjbHkQQQBTkYOOkbhmtnrtpS55pvEPR3gby376behc3XzZJI0lKwGGtkcN2stGBXwG5tY4v8-gMIP7Rnh37kMehFMwKTdRHaRAvnrErJjRrM/s1600/Hwy1Bridge-Fox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgXXBoWpurJmbAUEIt1UnDBvR646KnOjocbjbHkQQQBTkYOOkbhmtnrtpS55pvEPR3gby376behc3XzZJI0lKwGGtkcN2stGBXwG5tY4v8-gMIP7Rnh37kMehFMwKTdRHaRAvnrErJjRrM/s320/Hwy1Bridge-Fox.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span lang="EN-US">One of the most scenic spots along California's Highway 1 is Bixby Creek Bridge, a concrete arch 80 metres high and 215 metres long, near Big Sur. (Jim Fox photo)</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> The wonder of nature is a recent phenomenon for these once-reclusive and huge, blubbery marine mammals.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Most rookeries are on islands off North America's Pacific coast from Vancouver Island to Baja California, not on the mainland.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Since colonizing these unspoiled beaches and coves, their population has grown to 16,000 as seals return to their familiar breeding grounds. There were fewer than two dozen seals there in 1990.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> They can be seen there throughout the year.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> It's busy now as young seals have arrived followed by mature breeding seals in November. Babies are born in late December through the end of January.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> The mom seals' maternity leave is short. They take off after five weeks of giving birth but the males and pups laze around for about three months.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Visitors can learn all about their habits from members of the Friends of the Elephant Seals who are there daily. It's a convenient spot with a parking lot just off Highway 1, boardwalks and lookout points.</span></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZWbb9j5K7ZfqJijUF1Cizl2ZdF5q0pUq7ghU2-Zm-mgmIuNsg6lPR4uJ69Av6Z3_GpVEMgO75IokggmvRlZCBZwqqtKR22DX5XMaNUOxftVS74ml_E5nZT2PCe6aw9Z_iolfZXmOlobDl/s1600/Hwy1-Fox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZWbb9j5K7ZfqJijUF1Cizl2ZdF5q0pUq7ghU2-Zm-mgmIuNsg6lPR4uJ69Av6Z3_GpVEMgO75IokggmvRlZCBZwqqtKR22DX5XMaNUOxftVS74ml_E5nZT2PCe6aw9Z_iolfZXmOlobDl/s320/Hwy1-Fox.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">California</span><span lang="EN-US">'s Highway 1 is where mountains plunge almost vertically into the Pacific Ocean as seen south of Big Sur. (Jim Fox photo)</span></b></div></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> This animal adventure began in San Francisco after viewing frolicking sea lions and harbour seals that draw crowds to Fisherman's Wharf and Pier 39.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Heading south toward Monterey, there are tours available to view killer whales, as well as humpback, grey and blue whales, dolphins, porpoises, sea otters, seals, sea lions and sea birds.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> The Monterey Bay Aquarium, housed in an old cannery complex, helps demystify the mysteries of the ocean and its creatures. It houses more than 700 species of marine life in almost 200 galleries including a 3.8-million litre Outer Bay tank with tuna, sharks and sea turtles.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Steve Johnston, aquarium naturalist, said the "most prominent" marine animals to be seen along the coast are the "various pinnipeds: elephant seals, California sea lions and harbour seals."</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Just listen for them. Sea lions gather on beaches to breed and their "vocalizing" can be heard for kilometres while harbour seals "make croaking noises" when others encroach on their personal space, he said.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Carmel-by-the-Sea is the spot to see lots of pelicans and kingfishers among 250 species of birds and mammals at Point Lobos State Reserve.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlDqF-xj_xuVWaQoauBpsH2L0f_gDsS6xEcNo0rg8tZNRuhMwgMEG140nmjZjS9gHMC3UrLvtZnioVJWbTpteknVq1bEjwehSaw-dPvQb4FhsxfrLDnhbsJd7RNJ3ZrTfMFhkXhm_oB6N/s1600/MorroRock-Fox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlDqF-xj_xuVWaQoauBpsH2L0f_gDsS6xEcNo0rg8tZNRuhMwgMEG140nmjZjS9gHMC3UrLvtZnioVJWbTpteknVq1bEjwehSaw-dPvQb4FhsxfrLDnhbsJd7RNJ3ZrTfMFhkXhm_oB6N/s320/MorroRock-Fox.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span lang="EN-US">Morro Rock, a volcanic remnant, at Morro Bay, California is inhabited by peregrine falcons and frolicking sea otters. (Jim Fox photo)</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> South of the seal rookery is Morro Bay with an embarcadero that's a protected zone inhabited by peregrine falcons and frolicking sea otters.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> In the bay is Morro Rock, a huge volcanic remnant where visitors gather along the causeway to watch the resident otter families. Mom otters glide on their backs through the water with their pups riding on their chests.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfUYVsIpg1qvh4p8CXk6mkVHUv6OEsYKMYr4CKSBXXpUEWwcww_Lg0WlQW0Be87wsMfz1R3UJE1YJPchoY3LtCJPPfpL2KhzzFINkvdP13w59NrV_2ehpofxdgKyDpr_-Dx2CMhxGuoHkW/s1600/IMG_1245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfUYVsIpg1qvh4p8CXk6mkVHUv6OEsYKMYr4CKSBXXpUEWwcww_Lg0WlQW0Be87wsMfz1R3UJE1YJPchoY3LtCJPPfpL2KhzzFINkvdP13w59NrV_2ehpofxdgKyDpr_-Dx2CMhxGuoHkW/s320/IMG_1245.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Sara Loven points out the flora and fauna at Montana de Oro State Park. (Jim Fox photo)</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> While in the bay area, there's a coastal hiking trail at Montana de Oro State Park to see "native plants, birds and huge crashing waves curling into rocks that look like outstretched hands," said local resident Sara Loven.</span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Along the California coast, several species of whales can be seen.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Grey whales migrate from Alaska to Mexico between December to February and then back from March to May.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> In the warmer months, blue whales feed offshore along with the humpback, the most acrobatic of the species that slap their tails between bouts of lunge feeding.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> ---</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvA2srXL-9xG_7pWiOQMxyWXrC0WzwYZlbLaxFCEjshNEz8xzCxqloWav-qMV64H5hyphenhyphengX8qjlwNO5tltHg3vgwoyHuNx4yfq8pa4tVsBShYhYTGLxQ4O5_O9E5a34g0aEP6qSTHH3IuANz/s1600/DSCN1266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvA2srXL-9xG_7pWiOQMxyWXrC0WzwYZlbLaxFCEjshNEz8xzCxqloWav-qMV64H5hyphenhyphengX8qjlwNO5tltHg3vgwoyHuNx4yfq8pa4tVsBShYhYTGLxQ4O5_O9E5a34g0aEP6qSTHH3IuANz/s320/DSCN1266.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Photo opportunities galore. (Barbara Fox photo)</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> If you go:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> The drive along California's Highway 1 south from San Francisco to Morro Bay is an easy one-day trip packed with "watchable" wildlife sightings.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> This 250-mile trip offers ocean and mountain vistas as it skirts the scenic Pacific Ocean.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> The Travel and Tourism Commission offers the free Best of California Drives Guidebook and trip planning assistance at 1-800-862-2543; <a href="http://www.visitcalifornia.com/">www.visitcalifornia.com</a> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> For controlled animal sightings, the Monterey Bay Aquarium (831-648-4888; <a href="http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/">www.montereybayaquarium.org</a>) has exhibits on otters and a young white shark.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> Starting in San Francisco, the Fairmont hotel (1-800-257-7544; <a href="http://www.fairmont.com/">www.fairmont.com</a>) has a bed-and-breakfast package available year-round.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> At journey's end in Morro Bay, the Embarcadero Inn (1-888-223-5777; <a href="http://www.embarcaderoinn.com/">www.embarcaderoinn.com</a>) is a seaside setting with spacious rooms and balconies. Ecological tours, birdwatching, surfing and kayaking excursions are available.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span lang="EN-US"></span></span><span lang="EN-US">Inside Morro Bay State Park is the Inn at Morro Bay (<a href="http://www.innatmorrobay.com/">www.innatmorrobay.com</a>; 1-800-321-9566), a coastal hideaway resort with its Orchid Restaurant for fine dining while watching the sun set over the Pacific Ocean.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">-30-</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">This feature was originally written for distribution by the Canadian Press newswire.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">Jim Fox is a freelance writer who can be reached at <a href="mailto:onetanktrips@hotmail.com">onetanktrips@hotmail.com</a></span></b></div>Jim and Barb Foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06752223481962274597noreply@blogger.com1